Eyo festival

Leading up to this week you could see full bulletin boards advertising the event called Eyo. Also there suddenly were status of a figure in a white, full cloak erected around town. And I began to hear this buzz word Eyo floating around. Eyo is a festival held in Lagos. This event provokes mixed emotions depending upon who you are asking. The nationals look forward to Eyo, as it's a time to celebrate the deceased and gather together for a unified cause. The expats are frightened into not going to Eyo. They are sent informational emails from their high commission explaining the festival and directing them to inform the commission if they do choose to go.

I asked my friend Mike his opinion and he said that while in the past these festivals have become dangers this year was going to be different because of the involvement of Lagos Mayor and the extra security that would be on hand. So, we went but only after getting informed. Here is what I knew before I left. This festival was going to be calmer this year because they were trying to make it a tourist attraction. (Afterwards I told Mike that they had a long way to go if they wanted this to be attractive to any Westerners who tend to appreciate order or at least organized chaos). Shoes, head coverings and cameras weren't permitted and if you did have either of these you consequence would be a beating. I got "beat" a couple of times, but they were jokingly just taps because I had my shoes on (the cement was HOT and dirty) But, at times my heart did race when I saw large crowds of people running away being chased by those cloaked mystery men. This event is to celebrate those people who are late (dead) and is a way of honoring them.

What I saw was millions of people jammed together in the stadium. I saw an unending stream pushing their way up the broken railed stairway and a slower stream coming down. I saw people huddled on every inch of a cars roof to get a better view. I saw a few white people most of them in a tourist double decker bus. Mostly I saw a swarming sea of brown faces all squinting for a view of the masquerade and all beaded with glistening sweat.

What we saw over the tops of peoples head were groups of men representing different families (Igas) from Lagos. They were competing to win the prize of 1 million nira. They usually had a white sheet covering their heads and draping to cover their feet. On their heads were different colors of hats. Each Iga has their own symbol and own style. In all there were over 70 families represented. My favorite were these yellow hats that has embroidered swirls on them. Each person holds a stick and at one point two people hit the sticks together in rhythm. It reminded me of a parade which the families marching by along the shores of lined up people.

The largest Eyo is the Eyo Adimu. They are the ones in the picture above. They command the most respect because they are the most senior of Eyos. They chant curses over you and so I saw every one snapping their fingers over their heads to ward off those curses. Just like most traditional cultural events in Nigeria and other parts of Western African there is a lot of witchcraft and voodoo involved. It's sad to think that they think there is power in the snapping of fingers over their heads. How can this break a curse that is put on you? I find that even though there is a large number of Christians and Muslims here there is still this underlining current of fetish belief that is more powerful and more influential then either of the other two beliefs.

After a couple of hours Mike and I decided to leave. At the gate we had to wait our turn as a man in a bright yellow vest tried to keep order. There was just enough room for either group to come in or to go out. We all pressed up against each other while we waited to exit. People were getting impatient and pushing, as if this would accomplish anything. Public transportation was canceled today but the government had arranged for free public buses. We loaded onto one but after about 20 minutes of it sitting in dead still traffic and the sweat pouring down us we decided to check out our other options. Traffic was worse than usual. We took a bus to a main road and then took a taxi home. I was pleasantly surprised with how quickly this all happened and had mentally prepared myself for hours on a hot, unmoving bus.

Overall, I'm glad that I got to experience this famous masquerade in Nigeria. I enjoy learning about the culture and history of these people. It helps me to understand the environment I am living in.